Points on pruning
- from TreeCropper Issue 43, October 2005, p31
John Dean demonstrated pruning techniques at a field day hosted by Waikato Branch at an Ohaupo property in August 2005. Here are a few of his tips.
- Bypass-type pruners do less damage to the tree than anvil types.
- Soak pruning equipment with 20:1 bleach (eg Janola) mix for five minutes regularly, between properties, and especially between diseased trees to prevent the spread of infection.
- Do not cut too close and damage the branch collar.
- Do not cut too long and leave a stump to die and rot. eg coathangers.
- Rub with wire brush or scrape away old bark from areas you want to encourage new shoots from or old pruning wounds to encourage healing.
- When pruning off branch leaders - cut width of branch past fork.
- Undercut first if sawing - ensure cut is smooth and clean, leaving no cavities for water to pool and rot.
- Don't prune in the rain - wet weather spreads disease.
- Wounds over 25mm paint with 10:1 mix acrylic paint and insecticide (preferably don't use a bright coloured paint).
- For citrus - the best pruning is to tip with finger or scissors when young.
- Stone fruit fruits on last year's growth - plumper buds are fruit buds, thinner ones leaf buds. Best time to prune is straight after summer fruiting - heals quicker than in winter.
- Pip fruit fruits on old wood for about three years. Fruits on horizontal branches - ease down vertical branches and weigh down with milk bottles filled to required weight with water to train.
Sequence:
- Remove all dead wood (tree uses energy to stop this spreading).
- Prune to allow sunlight into centre of tree.
- Remove weak growth and crossover branches.
- Prune high growth beyond 'pickable reach' and shape tree.
More details -
Pruning - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pruning
Pruning Fruit Trees -
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pruning_fruit_trees