Waikato and Thames-Coromandel Branch

PUBLIC FRUIT TREE GRAFTING WORKSHOP

Cost:
$ 10 per person (NZTCA member)
$ 20 pp for non-members
This charge covers the cost of three rootstocks per person, workshop materials and hireage of the venue. The rootstocks to choose from are apple (MM106 or M793), pear (BA29) and plum (myrobalan) on a first in-first served basis.

This is a hands-on workshop. After a brief introduction of the theory involved, you can have a practice of the techniques on willow and then, under supervision from our experienced members, you can graft your three rootstocks choosing from a wide range of scion that will be provided.

WHAT YOU NEED TO BRING:
A grafting knife or a Stanley craft knife with a new blade, and secateurs.
There will be first aid available but it is the responsibility of each participant to take care, both of themselves and other people working around them.

There will be scion for people to take if they have existing trees to regraft or rootstocks at home. Please consider bringing some scion if you have something interesting to share or if you have some rootstocks that are free for others to use.

A RSVP would be appreciated and for any additional info,
please contact Don Harwood
Ph: 07 843 9007
 

(Notes for members attending)
The format of this years workshop will be a bit different…
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…from previous years. David Whyte will be giving a powerpoint presentation on the principles of grafting and we will break into small groups to do our own practicing with an experienced treecropper at every table. As our older more experienced members have said “there noting so satisfying as having fruit off a tree that you yourself have grafted”.

We look forward to seeing you there.

Warmest regards

Aroon,
newsletter editor, TCA-Waikato[/is_user_logged_in]

Membership Contributions

Scion wood for GRAFTING WORKSHOP and general swapping amongst branch members

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Fellow tree croppers,

I’m sure many of you will be looking forward to the grafting workshop on 12 September 2014. Your committee has ordered apple rootstock (MM106 and MM793), quince (BA29) for European and Nashi pears and also Myrobalan rootstock for plums, apricots and peaches.

I’ve taken scion wood from approximately 20 apple varieties, 3 Nashi pears, 3 European pears, 12 plums and prune plums and a couple of apricots. Some other members have also promised to bring some scion wood along. However, I would still like to encourage all of you to make some of your gems available to your fellow tree croppers and by doing so extend the following list:

Apples: Captain Kidd, Granny Smith, Prima, Monty’s Surprise, Cox’s Orange, Peasgood Nonsuch, Sugar Apple, Bramley’s Seedling, Priscilla, Chookhouse Apple, Kentish Fillbasket, Gloria Mundi, Tropicana, Hetlina, Dayton, Early Strawberry, Blenheim Orange, Biesterfelder Reinette, a crimson and a white crab apple.

Nashi pears: Nijisseiki, Hosui, Dan Bae.

European pears: Beurre Bosc, William’s Bon Chretien, Packham’s Triumph.

Prune plums: Italian, Stanley, Ahipara.

Plums: Reine Claude de Bavay, Greengage, Damson, several unidentified ones.

Apricots: Trevatt, Katy Cot.

If you would like to contribute to the success of the workshop by sharing some scion wood, please drop me a note and I’ll add your variety to the list of scion wood available at the workshop.

Kind regards, Roland[/is_user_logged_in]

HOW TO TAKE AND STORE SCION WOOD

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Choose healthy, terminal (one-year-old) dormant shoots, preferably straight and about pencil thickness with well-developed vegetative buds that are narrow and pointed. In contrast, floral buds are round and plump and these should be avoided. Terminal wood that has been well-exposed to sunlight during the past growing season generally has excellent scion wood from the bottom two-thirds of the shoot where the buds are mature and have short internodes. Buds at the top third of the shoot should be discarded because they are often succulent and too low in stored carbohydrates to produce vigorous growth after grafting. Cut the shoots into 250-300 mm lengths with at least two viable buds, bundle up and wrap in damp newspaper.

For each fruit variety, clearly label the bundles, seal them in a labeled plastic bag to prevent moisture loss, and store in the fridge for up to three months. Storage at warmer temperatures may result in the buds beginning to grow and, conversely, storage in the freezer can damage the buds. Both result in a greater likelihood of a graft failure.[/is_user_logged_in]