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Along the access ramp were ample signs of a once great orchard.
Tree Croppers were quick to spot the huge fig tree over the loos.
"Kawana Mill, the Governor's mill, is the only survivor of a number of flour mills established in the Wanganui/Taranaki area in the mid 1800's when wheat growing was a significant activity for the Maori people living in the area. Kawana Mill, built in 1854, was restored by local people in the late 1970's under the direction of the New Zealand Historic Places Trust who now maintain it. Flour milling on the site ceased in 1912."
"This mill was a gift from Governor Grey to the people on this part of the river. Look around you, on both sides of the river, and try and imagine wheat being grown in sufficient quantity to justify the erection of a mill. Imagine also the number of families who then lived along the river to support such activity."
"Take time to inspect the mill and read the display boards to absorb the scale of the change that has occurred along the river in the past 160 years."
The mill's millstone in its wooden surround, where much of the waterwheel's energy was expended.
"As you walk down the path to the mill look over the fence on your left at the old apple, pear, fig and walnut trees, a legacy from someone's orchard, the sole reminder of their existence on this site."
As we traveled the last stage of our outward journey, we listened to yet more stories from Kaye and Annette; of canoeing to otherwise inaccessible places up river gullies we could distantly see, to gather propagating material from ancient forgotten fruit trees; of the rise and fall of early and recent communities and communes - and we knew we were being treated to an amazingly detailed journey through an intense piece of history that few other people will ever be privileged to experience.
"Jerusalem is a set on a bend in the river, and is dominated by its church; the slim spire of which dominates the settlement. It was here that Mother Aubert re-established the Catholic Mission in 1883. She founded her own order, the Daughters of Our Lady of Compassion, to care for orphaned and destitute children, the aged and the weak. She became legendary for her compassionate care and for her detailed knowledge of Maori herbal knowledge much of which she incorporated into her healing therapies. Her nuns were active in the area encouraging the local people to improve their agriculture, diet and living standards."
It seemed to be common practise to place fattening pigs under the fruitful providence of old orchard trees.
Our group moved respectfully, past a sturdy Ginkgo biloba.
Even at this stage of the long day, Kay and Annette were still telling the history; and encouraging speculation about missing pieces and reasons why some things might have been done to evolve the way we saw them today - especially the trees we saw. Living eulogies to someone's dreams and lifetime, everywhere around us.
WHANGANUI RIVER TRIP TAILPIECE - from Central Districts newsletter, Feb/Mar 2001:
Anne and Mick, TCA members from Taranaki, sent in this extract from Jessie Munroe’s book “The Story of Suzanne Aubert”, Auckland University Press with Bridget Williams Books; 1996.'The Sisters had established their Mission at Jerusalem, just up the river from the area we visited. They were active in seeking to improve all aspects of the life of the people along the river.
Sister Mary Joseph had visited the orchardist, Frederick Sturm, (of Sturmer apples) in Hawkes Bay in January 1889. Her translated notes read:“Fruit trees (Sturm)
The walnut is extremely hardy. Planted at gaps of 25 or 30 feet it should yield returns after 10 years. The crops could easily be exported. The chestnut is sensitive only to late frosts and that only regards the blossom. After 15 to 20 years it should yield 50 bushels per tree. It would be better planted halfway up the slope rather than on the hilltops. Spaced at 30 feet, sheep would graze underneath without harm and without damaging the trees, even when they are young. If you saw that sheep, as they ran, were knocking some sideways, all you need to do is put a bit of manuka brushwood at their feet.
The olive is the best investment of all. It can be planted on the hilltops. After 10 years it should yield 20 to 30 gallons of oil per tree. After 7 years it should already be paying. Each of the above trees pays better than a sheep of the best breed. And trees planted at gaps of 25 to 30 feet do not hinder sheep from grazing. The olive grows very well from a slip three feet or more in length. The three trees above, when grown together, should after 10 years give good returns. Any of them at 7 years should pay better than anything else.”'Anne comments that she was surprised that the walnut, chestnut and olive trees were obviously seen as commercial crops so long ago and yet the industries are only just building up now.
Imagine where we would be now if the enthusiasm of Sturm and the Sisters at Jerusalem had been maintained and developed in the 100 years from 1889 to 1989. It seems as though sheep won the day and it was another four generations before interest was rekindled in these tree crops… [newsletter] Ed [Maurice Dellow]
"In the mid 20th century Jerusalem again came into national prominence as the place of retreat of the poet James K Baxter. He died in Jerusalem in 1972 and is buried nearby. The commune he established did not survive his death."
Back to present needs - our bus needed substantial weight over the rear axle for traction, to reverse further up the slippery gravel driveway. The right edge of the road drops to the river below. With sufficient humanity crowded into the rear, our driver managed a slip-slidy multi-point turn to begin the weary journey back to Wanganui. What a fabulous trip! And a huge thanks of gratitude to all involved.
(Quoted "commentary" is from the Field Trip Notes, unless stated otherwise)
Editor - Les Gruebner
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Updated: 2004 September 05